One of the most obvious features on the Beaufort made by Skimkayaks is the some 80mm wide, semi-circular groove running centrally fore-to-aft on the deck. Its purpose is to stiffen the kayak all the while keeping the amount of fiber and resin used to a reasonable minimum and thus keeping weight down. Makes sense!
As an added bonus this groove feature also provides a nifty place to stow, items such as a waterpump, water bottle, gps, etc. A nice one!
However there is a little minus from this groove. Not a big one, but there it is: It adds extra challenge in the installation of a deck compass and mast base plate. Like I said, it isn’t really a big minus. If you don’t kayak sail, then the mast base installation point is moot. Also if you don’t use/need a deck compass, other than the bungee cord quick installation type (Silva 58 Kayak or Suunto Orca ), then these “minus” points will not affect you! Win-Win! 😀
Here the Suunto Orca, hanging.. not very functional. Some people use this compass along one side or the other of the groove, but on my kayak those spaces are already reserved fro spare paddle and mast.. More about those later.
Personally I prefer to have a permanently installed deck compass on all of my “long haul” expedition kayaks. Up til now I have predominantly used the Silva 70P (Whisper and Willow). However the groove would require some form of a baseplate/cup, installation set up-custom-modification-geegaag-thing-ama-jiggie to make the installation of the 70P sit nicely , work well and look good. Since I’m unaware of any ready made solution on the markets for said purpose, all this would require some form of extra spurt in my imagination aka brain synapses ! In other words I would have to come up with some DIY solution and then make it. At this time I’m not THAT motivated!
While pondering my conundrum, I remembered another Silva compass model, the 70UNE, (and its non-illuminated version 70 UN). This is more expensive than the previous two models mentioned. It does have an extra bonus that it can be easily removed from its holder (and stolen!) and used as an hand-compass on land. Uptil now the high cost, easy removability (without tools) characteristics have been reason why I have shied away from this model. Also the deck holder of the compass feels a tad “flimsy” in my mind. A careless, tired whack in cold weather with a paddle onto the holder may be enough to break it?.. maybe? Plausible..?
Anyhoo.. at this stage the only available quality option for a semi-permanent deck compass installation for the Skim Kayaks Beaufort would appear to be the Silva 70 UNE. One big nice plus for this model is that it has a red led light for night illumination.. which can be really nice on night paddles! This adds to the “COOL” factor nicely!
After doling out the required amount of cash for a Silva 70 UNE. I went home to see if the compass would actually fit the deck groove? I was lucky I hadn’t paid for nothing. The compass actually fit quite snugly in the groove! As a nice extra extra bonus, the compass holder sat within the groove and thus would be protected from random whacks by paddles,other kayaks or hostile objects ! Nice!!!
Then it was just a matter of some DIY magic. Hopefully the following picture show is self-explanatory. 🙂
Due to the mast installation fore of the forward hatch the only place left for compass installation was just aft of the forward hatch. One should take in consideration the space needed to remove and close the hatch cover!Once the location of the compass was decided, the required holes were marked and drilled. BEFORE marking and drilling cover the area involved with masking tape, keeps the area clean, scratch free and also keeps the drilled holes neat!Due to the concave surface the compass holder needs a baseplate for it to work. here I used a scrap piece of 2mm carbon fiber “plate”. One cannot deny the “cool” factorHere the compass holder setting on top of the CF-plate. Don’t worry, the compass holder comes with the compass! Also here is the glaring challenge evident. The gap between the concave and flat surfaces, The problematic area is basicly where the thru deck screws go!Under the deck, the same problem exists. If there nuts were to be tightened taut against the bottom of the deck “as is” the washers would probably do some drastic “cracking” accompanied damage..Topside, I decided to use Sugru to make a seal/gasket/semi hard point between the CF-plate and deck. Lucky I had white Sugru! At this stage it is good to point out that all metal fasteners used are stainless steel (SS) and as an precautionary measure, BEFORE installation I put all of them in a plastic bag which I waved / moved about near the compass to see if they gave any interference.. this time none did!
Fittings used were Stainless steel M4 x 25 sized bolts, flat head
I rolled small “snakes” of the Sugru and wrapped them around the pre-installed screws. Making sure to pack some “extra” stuff on the inside.After the Sugru wrapping, I pressed the whole assembly in its place. Gently pressing it down evenly. Noting that the Sugru blobs spread more or less evenly. After this I waited 24 hours BEFORE doing ANYTHING ELSE! To let the Sugru harden.After waiting for 24 hours, I did the final tightening. The idea behind the waiti was that the once hardened Sugru ‘seals’ would atleast be tight. Under the deck I used 3mm rubber gasket washers under the stainless stell washers. Incase the topside gaskets seep/leak then this should be a secondary backup against water ingress! IF this fails I’ll just go to the good ole faithful Sika-Flex polyuretahne sealant blob solution! Also note that I use the “hat” nuts, hopefully they minimize the cutting/damaging fabrics, stuff sack, etc that are being packed/unpacked. Sloppily cut bolt ends have been known to cause similar damage…Compass installed!Compass installed on the deck of the Beaufort. Fit is snug. The installation hardly interferes with deck bungee fittings. Actually the bungees ensure that the compass will not become dislodged by “accident”
Yaayyy!!!
“Not another photo gallery?” You may question.
Yes, Yes! It’s another photo gallery!
During the summer of 2014 I did A LOT of paddling, more than ever before! As a result I spent a LOT of time on the water, in a kayak, and yes, paddling! As a result I got to visit and see lotsa nice, cool, awesome looking places. If you haven’t guessed it by now, I did take a bunch of pictures while I was at it!
These pictures were taken along the coast of Finland, between Virojoki and Tornio, one place or another…
The sunset of paddling day #2. Someplace south of Kotka.
Helsinki skyline during sunset.
On day 11 of the finnish coastal paddle the swedish brig “Tre Kronor” passed by on its way to Helsinki.
A short break on day 11. Here the weather was turning for the worse. Someplace east of Hanko
Sunser @ Södrä Yttergrund.
Sunset @ Västerö Isle, some place north of Vaasa.
Approaching Kristiinakaupunki.
Raippaluoto bridge. At this stage we have logged approx 900km on this trip.
One of the handful moments of calm during the trip. Someplace north of Vaasa, South of Kokkola…
Another serene sunset @ secret camp 251
Day 35 of the trip. Approaching Poroluodonkari, north of Kokkola. Here we were approaching an restricted area which is frequently closed due to military shoostings. This day however, all was calm, even shoosting wise and were able cross directly. This was also the first for long crossings; 6km, 17km and 14km crossings. After the first 10 kms.. the paddling got to be VERY boring! I hate long crossings.
Day 35. right in the middle of a military live fire zone, which was inactive.
Towards the end of day 35. The last long crossing. reception of FM radio channels was next to nonexistent..
At the begining of the first actual night paddle. Our schedule was badly delayed due to constant headwinds during the trip and our last resort was to paddle during the nights (and rest during the days) when the wind died. Paddling at night was pretty inneresting stuff!
Second nightpaddle, as the sun was going down. Here we are either south of or north of Raahe
A nice 6km sand beach, with no-one else around! This was a welcome rest stop after the 2nd night paddle!
Sunset @ Munahieta
@ our last camp a very dramatic thunderstorm approached us from the sea. Fortunately it blew over us to the mainland and only after that opened up with its full fury!
Hybrid Aleutian paddle. Prototype#2 Two seasons of use showing, but still going strong. Top viewHybrid Aleutian paddle.Prototype #2. The power face is the flat face. Side view
A paddle design I’ve exclusively used the past 3 years. The first prototype I built and used during the summer of 2013. It performed well but due to the materials used; maple, alder and pine, was slightly on the heavy side ( 1500+ gms), but booy, oh boy is it robust!
For the coast of Finland kayaking trip in 2014, I built a second prototype from lighter materials (total weight in the 950g range): Western Red Cedar (WRC), nordic pine and alder. I’ve used that paddle now for two consequetive summers and some 2500+ kms of touring. It still needs improvement but still its the best paddle I have made. While its not the lightest paddle out there, it IS strong enough for touring/expedition use! NO question! It has slight flex, just enough to let you know there is flex, But it is sturdy for serious heavy duty use! I’m not sure it will withstand the greenland definition of a multi-use-dependable paddle = “one can use it as a pull up bar”, but it’ll come very close!
The dimensions of the paddle prototype# 2 are: Length 220cm, Loom length 55cm, Blade max width 92mm. The loom cross-section is a mix between a Tri-oval and egg shape, kinda asymmerical oval. The loom cross-section dimensions are: width 28mm and thickness 32mm.
Marko, who will be paddling the Finnish coast during the summer 2016, asked me to make him a similar paddle with slightly tweaked dimensions to suit him. Here’s a quick and dirty photo-album (part 1) of “How, what and possibly why?”
Part – 2 will follow once I get the paddle made… and mayhaps later of how it all worked out? Or did it?
Ripped and planed strips for paddle material: from left to right: Western RED Cedar , Nordic Pine, Spruce. I did not use spruce in Markos paddle.
The Hybrid Aleutian paddle shaft in glue press. This paddle was glued using 2 component epoxy made by Hempel.
The outline of the paddle drawn onto the paddle blank which at this point is approx 33 mm thick overall and max width about 94mm. The gluing of the paddle blade cheeks is missing from here. The paddle cheeks are of alder.
Ready to rough cut the excess off, from the paddle balde cheek pieces.
Outline of Aleut paddle has been cut with the bandsaw. now needs to be refined to the drawn line with a handplane.
Now the side profile is drawn. also blade edge centerlline and all related markings have to be made at this stage!
The blade edge markings have been scribed in. Central (shaft/loom) lamination consists or 3 central WRC strips (7.3mm thick) and the two (outer) strips of nordic pine 5mm thick. The blade “cheeks are Alder.
side outline markings
After cutting the roughcuts away with a bandsaw , I handplane down to “the line” (which are marked on the sides)
Now the side outline has been planed to its “thickest” taper, ie. central thick portion of the blade.
Just had to put another picture with wood shaving here! 😉
Here the paddle backface, is slowly getting its ridgelike shape, however this is still at its rough planed stage.
Top view of the rough outline. Still needs plaenty of sanding and shaping!
Right after the Åland paddling trip, I went on a shorter paddling trip with Marko who wanted to try out his sealegs, in the Archipelago National Park. The nature of this trip was to take it easy and get the sense and feel of the sea.
The rough route of the trip went as follows: Parainen ferry landing-Paraisten portti – Högland – Sandö – Högsåra – Tunnhamn – Yxskären – Vänö – Örö – Häran – Bötskäret – Hangonkylä.
Apart from the first day the weather was grey, drab, rainy and windy. So pretty typical of the time and location in question. However I was able to get some decent pictures of the overall trip.
View to the west from the hill on Högland isle
On the Western shore of Högland.
Lunch Break on Sandön
Easternmost spit of rocks on Sandön
On the western shore of Högsåra, there was a small sandy beach.
Some naval traffic passing by..
Only to be followed by more naval traffic the next day.
Högsåra camp
One day was spent ashore as the weather wasn’t too friendly looking.
Sunset after a windy day, these are the moments to remember and savour during the cold and dark winters!
Same sunset sans kayaks
And yet another one with slightly different tones and shades.
North of Vänö/Yxskären there was a pretty busy boating lane. After about a 30 minute wait there was a gap big enough to dare a crossing.
Campsite @Yxskären. The sheep and cows were too shy to get in the picture.
Yet another campsite somewhere north of Örö isle, on some unnamed rock
Some sun to try to dry equipment!
After an aborted attempt to the lighthouse isle of Bengskär we had lunch stop in this labyrinth of isles..
At the writing of this article, I have installed SeaDog sails on three different kayaks. Each installation has been different due to differing circumstances. Each installation, while requiring some extra work, has been reasonably easy and straight forward. In this article I will concentrate on making an adapter for the mast baseplate on a Skimkayaks Beaufort.
Vortex and Whisper installed with SeaDog sailsThe deck of “Whisper”, a Guillemot expedition single has a very large radii curve. So I screwed the mast base-plate “as is”, with only a thin 4mm EPDM foam strip between the deck and base-plate. Thus far it has been enough. deck is strong and no water ingress has been observed.
The deck of the Tiderace Vortex has a slight ridge, which more or less requires an adapter, if the base-plate is to be installed on the centerline of the deck. Here I fashioned a clunky looking adapter from a scrap piece of white HDPE. A quick and dirty solution which has worked thus far. To ensure against water ingress I put a blob of (Black )SikaFlex polyurethane based sealant/adhesive between the adapter and deck when installing the whole set. The purpose of the sikaflex sealant is to seal, rather than attach The two m4 SS thru-bolts do the job of attaching. Also under the deck I made the opposite shape from a similar sized HDPE block. Thus hoping that mast pressure will be spread out on an larger area.. somewhat anyways.. SO far All seems to be working nicely.
The Beaufort however, with its negative groove (or gutter) running down the center of the deck is the most demanding installation thus far. The negative groove will require an adapter for the mast base plate. The flat bottom of the plate needs to be mated with the bottom of the groove. Otherwise this may cause pressure ridges onto the deck groove which may later cause cracking. Also the mast base plate needs to be slightly higher to allow enough counterclockwise rotation of the mast attachment piece!
Mast base-plate sitting at the intended location on the deck of the Beaufort… See the problem? mating a flat bottom against a concave surface..
I had some balsa/Western Red Cedar scrap blocks leftover, which I decided to use in this project. Initially I made two test prototypes which are in their very rough form here. Orange mast base plate to give idea of shape.After a rough pencilled in outline, some imagination, the actual shaping of the balsa/WRC pieces was fairly easy and quick work with a carving knife and a sanding block.After rough shaping the topside of the adapter block I still needed to shape the mating surface, ie. bottom surface of the adapter.In order to get te best fit with minimal effort, I used the deck groove/gutter as a shaping form , by putting 150 grit sandpaper on it and sanding the adapter block bottom to the corresponding shape.After sanding, the block sits nicely in the groove.While I was at it, I made prototype #3, more of a teardrop shape. No practical purpose, more aesthetic if anything.After the final shaping of the balsa/WRC plugs, I vacuum bagged them. 1 layer CarbonFiber + 1 layer of carbon/glassfiber combo in epoxy. Being prototype work the workmanship is a bit rough. Operative term being here “quick and dirty… Later several layers of varnish, to close the pinholes visible in this picture.The undersides of prototype #1 and #3. The grooves purpose is to let water run pass under the adapter down the deckgroove and not cause a “dam” onto the deck.. yes..I know it might be splitting hairs… 😉Prototype#1 setting on deck prior to installation.. Looks ok.Prototype #3 looks good on the deck. I think this is the one I will go with!
More about the actual installation process of the mast will follow…
Sail vs. non-sail… which one looks like a “cool cruiser” ? 😉
Now be honest! Have you ever fantasized, in a following wind, under a heavy load , somehow .. harnessing that wonderful wind to help you get along….? Now don’t lie! I suspect EVERY sea kayaker has in one point or another thought like this. 😀
Springtime 2015 I found myself trying out something completely new. GnarlyDog convinced me to give kayak sailing a try. Uptil now I’d only tried using windpaddle sail briefly, but did not like the concept at all as it is strictly downwind sailing and while it does not require a rudder equipped kayak, it works better with one… And I’m not going to install a rudder on my kayaks. End of discussion! Also it ties ones hands to operating the sail…
First time kayak sailor getting the hang of it! After about 45 minutes 😀 Lake Vanaja, Finland
Gnarly suggested SeaDog Sails, whom I contacted and some weeks later I received my first SeaDog Sail ! Its been fun ever since! It was early may 2015 when I was able to go out and start learning to use the sail.
About the sail, it is surprisingly smart set up. Contrary to common beliefs it DOES not require a rudder for installation! A skeg would be nice to have but basicly one can sail decently without a skeg installed, however here one will need to use corrective strokes or a paddle rudder quite often. That said I will be retrofitting a skeg in all of my kayaks!
Vortex and Whisper installed with SeaDog Sails. Sails are “up”
The sail basicly operates as follows: When you want to sail. You release it from “Stowed on deck” configuration, pop the mast into its “mast up” configuration, cleat the up haul line and “Voila” ready to sail! If the going gets rough or you need to go into the wind, then you reverse the previously described operation and your kayak is back in its “pure kayak – mast down” mode. Quite simple! With a little practice each operation takes no-more than 5-7 seconds to perform.
High wind testing and learning. This was Markos (orange kayak) second time out kayak sailing!!! No he didn’t swim
While under sail, one can still use the paddle for correcting strokes, stern rudder or bracing… or not! So the sail does not tie the hands while sailing. Only during mast uphaul or downhaul, and tweaking the sail angle with the cam-cleat, ones’ hands will be doing other than paddling. This last feature is one of my favourites!
Peacefully ghosting along autumn 2015, Lake saimaa, Finland
Another misconception is that this sail is purely for downwind sailing. Not true! Depending on the sail set up, kayak configuration and your sailing skills one can sail beam reach and perhaps even close reach. My rough best estimate has been to sail maybe 25 degrees into the wind, on a sharply chined kayak and quite a bit of edging…
However there are some little requirements or rather common sense suggestions before one should start installing a sail on ones kayak!
One should be a confident and able kayaker. Minimum requirement (in my mind ) for kayak sailing is that one should be able to do self rescues, braces + some kind of eskimo roll. I haven’t had to do a single roll or self rescue under sail, but the fact that I know I can perform these gives me all the more confidence to handle the kayak under sail… me hopes ! 😉
Some understanding about the concept of sailing comes handy.. though starting with light winds and an instructor close-by one can be self taught quite quickly to kayak sail! I’ve had two “experimental students” to test this claim and both are still alive and breathing and in friendly terms with me.. 😉
Punching thru.. Lake Vanaja, Finland
While kayak sailing isn’t for the first or second time, “beginner” kayaker it does open a whole new world for the more experienced confident kayaker- A world of fun if nothing else!
At the writing of this I have logged some 360 kms with sail, of which approximately half have been under touring/expedition conditions. Most if not every km has been either fun or educational and thus very interesting! Introducing the sailing concept into kayaking also opens the world of sailing and wind in a new way to the kayaker.
I will not dwell into sail installation in this post, that will come later. However there are a couple of excellent blogs that covers sail installation: Douglas Wilcox’s site and GnarlyDog News
Contrary to common beliefs.. A kayak sail will not make the kayak go faster! Well THAT fast. Usually the defining factor is the maximum hull speed. But it does help make the kayak go at hull speed with minimal paddling! Going above hull speed will require high winds and following seas.. and that while is FUN as anything, it does add certain risks. I’ve usually been able to clock 9-11 km/h in winds of approx 10m/s. This wind speed I have found to be the maximum safe wind speed. Any higher than 10 m/s one needs to be on ones toes, alert, awake and accept the fact of a cold bath. I think the strongest winds I’ve encountered and still stay upright was in the 14 m/s range. The highest speeds that my GPS have logged momentarily under sail, high winds+following waves have been 16.4km/h and 17 km/h. This was with the Guillemot Expedition Single without any load.
Coasting along in a light to moderate breeze. SeaDog Commander installed on the Guillemot Expedition Single Lake Vanaja, Finland
Under full expedition load I have been able to coast along at 6-7.5 km/h in a run or a broad reach, using the paddle as a rudder only. With light assisting strokes I have been moving about 8-9.5km/h.
The newest SeaDog sail , the Commander is my favorite, the added reefing points add more versatility to the sail. The sail is more efficient sailing into the wind than the previous models. The older Code Zero Black Diamond maybe easier to handle for a beginner than the Commander, but the commander has the reefing option so this changes the balance quite nicely. I have ordered the sail with the lower panel with Clearview panel, giving me some forward visibility, which can be useful in narrow (and congested) waterways.
Clear skies and almost no wind.. SeaDog Commander installed on the Guillemot “SnG”, Night Heron kayak Lake Saimaa, Finland
All of the SeaDog sails I have used thus far have excellent work quality!
Autumn sailing in Lake Saimaa
Here’s a couple of my favorite sailing videos that I’ve found online – from downunder. Courtesy of GnarlyDog The first one shows how the sail works.
And some just sailing that brings a smile on your face..
Hokay!
This post doesn’t have any kayaking.. but it still has something to do with kayaking ! Orkney is one awesome destination for sea-kayaking and it is my sincere wish, hope, plan, nay a master-plan to go kayaking there someday… hence this post and hopefully pictures will explain more!
Last summer, during a 10 day visit to Orkney I was strictly on land and while watching the waves, came to the conclusion that when the day comes to go kayaking there.. I should know more, be more experienced and hopefully have some local expert to teach the quick low down.. ie. “where not to be and when..? ”
I bought the local sea chart of the Orkney area waters… and I must admit there were some new markings and timetables to learn. I gathered that they have something to do with the tidal flows, waves , BIG water thing-ama-jigs! .. yikes – Crikey!
There was something in the rugged, windswept look in and around Orkney that I found alluring. I cannot quite put my finger on it, but somehow it felt like a place I might like. The most foreign feature in Orkney was the distinct lack of forests! Very very rare occurrence! For someone who works with wood and lives in a country where there are like a zillion trees.. this was very Veird! Takes abit to getting used to.
In the meanwhile, enjoy some pictures from Orkney! It’s s surprisingly nice place! 🙂
At times some say… “Its just like Greece!” 😀
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